Comically tasty, but in the end a little clownish.

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Title: Comically tasty, but in the end a little clownish.
Authors: DAVID ELLIS
Source: London Standard. 4/30/2026, p28. 1p.
Abstract: Auguste 373 Mentmore Terrace, E8 Critics sometimes get it wrong and restaurants have off nights. A reminder of this materialised last week in the chipper form of Ledbury chef Brett Graham, who works six doors down from Eel and Dorian, a magnificent pair of restaurants that share an owner in Chris D'Sylva. Having lunched at the former, I was emptying the cellar at the latter with D'Sylva when Graham, perhaps picking up the scent of Chassagne-Montrachet, spotted us and popped over. That both are restaurateurs and Australian expats makes it easy for them to see eye-to-eye, helped in a literal sense by the fact they are, curiously, exactly the same height. Unsure if Graham would remember or even have read my lacklustre review of The Ledbury on its 2022 reopening, I thought it best to clear the air. "It was gutting," he said. "And I still remember the service — the drink spilt on you, the late booking, drama in the kitchen." [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]
Copyright of London Standard is the property of Independent Digital News & Media Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites without the copyright holder's express written permission. Additionally, content may not be used with any artificial intelligence tools or machine learning technologies. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
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  Data: Comically tasty, but in the end a little clownish.
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  Data: Auguste 373 Mentmore Terrace, E8 Critics sometimes get it wrong and restaurants have off nights. A reminder of this materialised last week in the chipper form of Ledbury chef Brett Graham, who works six doors down from Eel and Dorian, a magnificent pair of restaurants that share an owner in Chris D'Sylva. Having lunched at the former, I was emptying the cellar at the latter with D'Sylva when Graham, perhaps picking up the scent of Chassagne-Montrachet, spotted us and popped over. That both are restaurateurs and Australian expats makes it easy for them to see eye-to-eye, helped in a literal sense by the fact they are, curiously, exactly the same height. Unsure if Graham would remember or even have read my lacklustre review of The Ledbury on its 2022 reopening, I thought it best to clear the air. "It was gutting," he said. "And I still remember the service — the drink spilt on you, the late booking, drama in the kitchen." [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]
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  Data: <i>Copyright of London Standard is the property of Independent Digital News & Media Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites without the copyright holder's express written permission. Additionally, content may not be used with any artificial intelligence tools or machine learning technologies. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract.</i> (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
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