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Testing a Model of Wind-Driven Waves in a Low-Energy Environment with High Spatial Resolution Data.

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Title: Testing a Model of Wind-Driven Waves in a Low-Energy Environment with High Spatial Resolution Data.
Authors: Baghbani, Ramin1 (AUTHOR), Linhoss, Anna2 (AUTHOR) alinhoss@auburn.edu, Osorio, Raúl J.2 (AUTHOR)
Source: Journal of Coastal Research. 2025, Vol. 41 Issue 4, p690-700. 11p.
Subjects: Wind waves, Ocean waves, Spatial resolution, Wind speed, Lakes
Abstract: Baghbani, R.; Linhoss, A., and Osorio, R.J., 2025. Testing a model of wind-driven waves in a low-energy environment with high spatial resolution data. Journal of Coastal Research, 41(4), 690–700. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. Numerical models offer a convenient tool for understanding wind-driven ocean waves owing to their grounding in mechanistic processes and representing uninterrupted spatial and temporal coverage. However, currently no numerical models are designed to simulate waves in low-energy systems with wave frequencies <1 Hz. It is critical to have numerical models capable of simulating low-energy systems to be able to understand wave dynamics in enclosed and semi-enclosed systems such as bays and lakes. Hence, this study assesses the efficacy of a numerical wind-generated wave model in a low-energy system, a setting outside of its intended use. A comprehensive dataset with high spatial resolution is used to robustly test the model. Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) software was used to simulate wave climates, including significant wave height, mean wave period, and peak wave period. Wind speed, wind direction, and a bathymetric mesh were used as input data. Twenty-two wave gauges measured wave parameters throughout the study area over 5 days. Average measured significant wave height (Hs) was 0.04 m, average measured period was 0.79 seconds, and average peak period was 2.85 seconds. Modeled and measured results were compared. Results of this study show that the model was able to simulate spatially averaged values of significant wave height and mean wave period. The model consistently underestimated measured peak wave period. The model was not able to accurately simulate specific areas of high or low significant wave height or mean wave period within the study area. These findings are used to make recommendations for future model applications in low-energy environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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Database: Engineering Source
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Abstract:Baghbani, R.; Linhoss, A., and Osorio, R.J., 2025. Testing a model of wind-driven waves in a low-energy environment with high spatial resolution data. Journal of Coastal Research, 41(4), 690–700. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. Numerical models offer a convenient tool for understanding wind-driven ocean waves owing to their grounding in mechanistic processes and representing uninterrupted spatial and temporal coverage. However, currently no numerical models are designed to simulate waves in low-energy systems with wave frequencies <1 Hz. It is critical to have numerical models capable of simulating low-energy systems to be able to understand wave dynamics in enclosed and semi-enclosed systems such as bays and lakes. Hence, this study assesses the efficacy of a numerical wind-generated wave model in a low-energy system, a setting outside of its intended use. A comprehensive dataset with high spatial resolution is used to robustly test the model. Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) software was used to simulate wave climates, including significant wave height, mean wave period, and peak wave period. Wind speed, wind direction, and a bathymetric mesh were used as input data. Twenty-two wave gauges measured wave parameters throughout the study area over 5 days. Average measured significant wave height (Hs) was 0.04 m, average measured period was 0.79 seconds, and average peak period was 2.85 seconds. Modeled and measured results were compared. Results of this study show that the model was able to simulate spatially averaged values of significant wave height and mean wave period. The model consistently underestimated measured peak wave period. The model was not able to accurately simulate specific areas of high or low significant wave height or mean wave period within the study area. These findings are used to make recommendations for future model applications in low-energy environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
ISSN:07490208
DOI:10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-24-00033.1