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Vouwo mud dye: A material, microbiological and cultural approach to researching sustainable textile dyes.

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Title: Vouwo mud dye: A material, microbiological and cultural approach to researching sustainable textile dyes.
Authors: Douny, Laurence1 (AUTHOR) laurence.douny@hu-berlin.de, Lobato, José Ignacio Hernández1,2 (AUTHOR), Amini, Shahrouz3 (AUTHOR), Séré, Adama4 (AUTHOR), Sawadogo, Salif1 (AUTHOR), Fratzl, Peter1,3 (AUTHOR), Hengge, Regine1,2 (AUTHOR)
Source: Coloration Technology. Dec2025, Vol. 141 Issue 6, p843-854. 12p.
Subjects: Textile dyeing, Dyes & dyeing, Natural dyes & dyeing, Chemical reactions, Microbiology, Anthropology, Traditional knowledge
Geographic Terms: Burkina Faso, West Africa
Abstract: Coloration using soil‐based dyes is a fast‐growing subject of enquiry in fibres and textile surface design, with pigments and microbes involved in their production being extensively researched. Dyeing techniques using this rich natural resource have also been integral to long‐standing textile traditions worldwide. Grounded in an anthropological study of the dyeing practice of Marka‐Dafing hunters in Burkina Faso, West Africa, this paper presents an analysis of the coloration processes in vouwo, or mud dye, used for hunting and ceremonial garments. It highlights complex biochemical and microbiological reactions occurring in a dyeing experiment curated by dyers throughout an 18‐month‐long fermentation process. The authors propose an interdisciplinary approach to the study of vouwo that combines (i) detailed examination and documentation of craft practice with (ii) a materials science‐based analysis of the iron ore used and of the resulting brown colour shades and (iii) a microbiological description of the multiple roles of bacteria and their complex interactions with plants such as Acacia nilotica in the dyeing process. By underlining the material, biochemical, microbiological and medicinal properties of vouwo dye, our study of dyeing with soil as a natural colourant calls attention to a potential role of traditional craft knowledge in dialogue with modern science for the future production of more sustainable and health‐promoting dyes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
Copyright of Coloration Technology is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites without the copyright holder's express written permission. Additionally, content may not be used with any artificial intelligence tools or machine learning technologies. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
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  Data: Vouwo mud dye: A material, microbiological and cultural approach to researching sustainable textile dyes.
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  Data: <searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Douny%2C+Laurence%22">Douny, Laurence</searchLink><relatesTo>1</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<i> laurence.douny@hu-berlin.de</i><br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Lobato%2C+José+Ignacio+Hernández%22">Lobato, José Ignacio Hernández</searchLink><relatesTo>1,2</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Amini%2C+Shahrouz%22">Amini, Shahrouz</searchLink><relatesTo>3</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Séré%2C+Adama%22">Séré, Adama</searchLink><relatesTo>4</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Sawadogo%2C+Salif%22">Sawadogo, Salif</searchLink><relatesTo>1</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Fratzl%2C+Peter%22">Fratzl, Peter</searchLink><relatesTo>1,3</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Hengge%2C+Regine%22">Hengge, Regine</searchLink><relatesTo>1,2</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)
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  Data: <searchLink fieldCode="JN" term="%22Coloration+Technology%22">Coloration Technology</searchLink>. Dec2025, Vol. 141 Issue 6, p843-854. 12p.
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  Data: <searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Textile+dyeing%22">Textile dyeing</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Dyes+%26+dyeing%22">Dyes & dyeing</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Natural+dyes+%26+dyeing%22">Natural dyes & dyeing</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Chemical+reactions%22">Chemical reactions</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Microbiology%22">Microbiology</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Anthropology%22">Anthropology</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Traditional+knowledge%22">Traditional knowledge</searchLink>
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  Data: <searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Burkina+Faso%22">Burkina Faso</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22West+Africa%22">West Africa</searchLink>
– Name: Abstract
  Label: Abstract
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  Data: Coloration using soil‐based dyes is a fast‐growing subject of enquiry in fibres and textile surface design, with pigments and microbes involved in their production being extensively researched. Dyeing techniques using this rich natural resource have also been integral to long‐standing textile traditions worldwide. Grounded in an anthropological study of the dyeing practice of Marka‐Dafing hunters in Burkina Faso, West Africa, this paper presents an analysis of the coloration processes in vouwo, or mud dye, used for hunting and ceremonial garments. It highlights complex biochemical and microbiological reactions occurring in a dyeing experiment curated by dyers throughout an 18‐month‐long fermentation process. The authors propose an interdisciplinary approach to the study of vouwo that combines (i) detailed examination and documentation of craft practice with (ii) a materials science‐based analysis of the iron ore used and of the resulting brown colour shades and (iii) a microbiological description of the multiple roles of bacteria and their complex interactions with plants such as Acacia nilotica in the dyeing process. By underlining the material, biochemical, microbiological and medicinal properties of vouwo dye, our study of dyeing with soil as a natural colourant calls attention to a potential role of traditional craft knowledge in dialogue with modern science for the future production of more sustainable and health‐promoting dyes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
– Name: AbstractSuppliedCopyright
  Label:
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  Data: <i>Copyright of Coloration Technology is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites without the copyright holder's express written permission. Additionally, content may not be used with any artificial intelligence tools or machine learning technologies. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract.</i> (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
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      – Code: eng
        Text: English
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        PageCount: 12
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      – SubjectFull: Textile dyeing
        Type: general
      – SubjectFull: Dyes & dyeing
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      – SubjectFull: Natural dyes & dyeing
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      – SubjectFull: Chemical reactions
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      – SubjectFull: Microbiology
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      – SubjectFull: Anthropology
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      – SubjectFull: Traditional knowledge
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      – SubjectFull: Burkina Faso
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      – SubjectFull: West Africa
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      – TitleFull: Vouwo mud dye: A material, microbiological and cultural approach to researching sustainable textile dyes.
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              Text: Dec2025
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