Evolution of Surface Progressive Waves Propagating over a Sloping Wavy Seabed.
Saved in:
| Title: | Evolution of Surface Progressive Waves Propagating over a Sloping Wavy Seabed. |
|---|---|
| Authors: | Wu, H. C.1 (AUTHOR) awu781225@gmail.com, Chen, Y. Y.1 (AUTHOR) yichen@mail.nsysu.edu.tw, Cheng, C. Y.2 (AUTHOR) cycheng@niar.org.tw |
| Source: | Fluid Dynamics. Jun2026, Vol. 61 Issue 3, p1-21. 21p. |
| Subjects: | Resonance, Wave amplification, Water waves, Waves (Physics), Rogue waves, Wave energy, Ocean bottom |
| Abstract: | To investigate the evolution of surface progressive waves propagating over a sloping wavy seabed, this study employes a perturbation expansion approach with three governing parameters, namely, the equivalent wave amplitude , the seabed slope , and the amplitude of wavy seabed structures. These parameters are used to derive analytical solutions, including those under conditions involving the generation of reflected free waves, while avoiding singularities arising from resonant conditions in the wave field. Moreover, the reflected wave induced at the resonant point by a sloping wavy seabed is investigated. This resonance is amplified by the shoaling effect, which potentially contributes to the formation of large surges or freak waves. This amplification effect is stronger for longer-period waves near the coast and for steeper seabed slopes. When , the solution reduces to the classical sloping seabed case, capturing the effects of wave shoaling, wave set-down, and return flow generation (caused by variations in the water depth). Alternatively, when , the solution corresponds to a wavy seabed in a scenario involving a constant average water depth. In both limiting cases, the analytical solutions satisfy the principle of wave energy conservation. The reflection coefficients, including those associated with resonance, are determined in each limiting case. Comparisons with experimental and analytical results from the literature confirm the accuracy and applicability of the developed formula, especially under resonant conditions. The findings of this study provide theoretical insights into wave amplification mechanisms relevant to the generation of extreme waves near coastal zones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR] |
| Copyright of Fluid Dynamics is the property of Springer Nature and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites without the copyright holder's express written permission. Additionally, content may not be used with any artificial intelligence tools or machine learning technologies. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.) | |
| Database: | Engineering Source |
| FullText | Text: Availability: 0 |
|---|---|
| Header | DbId: egs DbLabel: Engineering Source An: 194894230 AccessLevel: 6 PubType: Academic Journal PubTypeId: academicJournal PreciseRelevancyScore: 0 |
| IllustrationInfo | |
| Items | – Name: Title Label: Title Group: Ti Data: Evolution of Surface Progressive Waves Propagating over a Sloping Wavy Seabed. – Name: Author Label: Authors Group: Au Data: <searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Wu%2C+H%2E+C%2E%22">Wu, H. C.</searchLink><relatesTo>1</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<i> awu781225@gmail.com</i><br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Chen%2C+Y%2E+Y%2E%22">Chen, Y. Y.</searchLink><relatesTo>1</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<i> yichen@mail.nsysu.edu.tw</i><br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Cheng%2C+C%2E+Y%2E%22">Cheng, C. Y.</searchLink><relatesTo>2</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<i> cycheng@niar.org.tw</i> – Name: TitleSource Label: Source Group: Src Data: <searchLink fieldCode="JN" term="%22Fluid+Dynamics%22">Fluid Dynamics</searchLink>. Jun2026, Vol. 61 Issue 3, p1-21. 21p. – Name: Subject Label: Subjects Group: Su Data: <searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Resonance%22">Resonance</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Wave+amplification%22">Wave amplification</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Water+waves%22">Water waves</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Waves+%28Physics%29%22">Waves (Physics)</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Rogue+waves%22">Rogue waves</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Wave+energy%22">Wave energy</searchLink><br /><searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Ocean+bottom%22">Ocean bottom</searchLink> – Name: Abstract Label: Abstract Group: Ab Data: To investigate the evolution of surface progressive waves propagating over a sloping wavy seabed, this study employes a perturbation expansion approach with three governing parameters, namely, the equivalent wave amplitude , the seabed slope , and the amplitude of wavy seabed structures. These parameters are used to derive analytical solutions, including those under conditions involving the generation of reflected free waves, while avoiding singularities arising from resonant conditions in the wave field. Moreover, the reflected wave induced at the resonant point by a sloping wavy seabed is investigated. This resonance is amplified by the shoaling effect, which potentially contributes to the formation of large surges or freak waves. This amplification effect is stronger for longer-period waves near the coast and for steeper seabed slopes. When , the solution reduces to the classical sloping seabed case, capturing the effects of wave shoaling, wave set-down, and return flow generation (caused by variations in the water depth). Alternatively, when , the solution corresponds to a wavy seabed in a scenario involving a constant average water depth. In both limiting cases, the analytical solutions satisfy the principle of wave energy conservation. The reflection coefficients, including those associated with resonance, are determined in each limiting case. Comparisons with experimental and analytical results from the literature confirm the accuracy and applicability of the developed formula, especially under resonant conditions. The findings of this study provide theoretical insights into wave amplification mechanisms relevant to the generation of extreme waves near coastal zones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR] – Name: AbstractSuppliedCopyright Label: Group: Ab Data: <i>Copyright of Fluid Dynamics is the property of Springer Nature and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites without the copyright holder's express written permission. Additionally, content may not be used with any artificial intelligence tools or machine learning technologies. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract.</i> (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.) |
| PLink | https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&site=eds-live&db=egs&AN=194894230 |
| RecordInfo | BibRecord: BibEntity: Identifiers: – Type: doi Value: 10.1134/S001546282560316X Languages: – Code: eng Text: English PhysicalDescription: Pagination: PageCount: 21 StartPage: 1 Subjects: – SubjectFull: Resonance Type: general – SubjectFull: Wave amplification Type: general – SubjectFull: Water waves Type: general – SubjectFull: Waves (Physics) Type: general – SubjectFull: Rogue waves Type: general – SubjectFull: Wave energy Type: general – SubjectFull: Ocean bottom Type: general Titles: – TitleFull: Evolution of Surface Progressive Waves Propagating over a Sloping Wavy Seabed. Type: main BibRelationships: HasContributorRelationships: – PersonEntity: Name: NameFull: Wu, H. C. – PersonEntity: Name: NameFull: Chen, Y. Y. – PersonEntity: Name: NameFull: Cheng, C. Y. IsPartOfRelationships: – BibEntity: Dates: – D: 01 M: 06 Text: Jun2026 Type: published Y: 2026 Identifiers: – Type: issn-print Value: 00154628 Numbering: – Type: volume Value: 61 – Type: issue Value: 3 Titles: – TitleFull: Fluid Dynamics Type: main |
| ResultId | 1 |
