Mechanisms of wind wave and swell partitioning and abrupt wave direction shifts in the deep-ocean: A decade of observations in the Hawaiian waters.
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| Title: | Mechanisms of wind wave and swell partitioning and abrupt wave direction shifts in the deep-ocean: A decade of observations in the Hawaiian waters. |
|---|---|
| Authors: | Yao, Shijie1 (AUTHOR), Duan, Wenyang1 (AUTHOR) duanwenyang@hrbeu.edu.cn, Zhang, Minghao1 (AUTHOR), Xu, Wentao1 (AUTHOR) |
| Source: | SCIENCE CHINA Earth Sciences. May2026, Vol. 69 Issue 5, p1772-1784. 13p. |
| Subject Terms: | *Wind waves, *Marine engineering, *Wave energy, *Theory of wave motion, *Ocean, *Seawater |
| Abstract: | Insufficient understanding of the coupling mechanism between wind and wave directions in the deep ocean, as well as the spatiotemporal evolution of wave direction, significantly constrains the operational performance of marine engineering and offshore equipment. Utilizing observational data from five buoy stations in the Hawaiian waters from 2014 to 2023 and concurrent ERA5 reanalysis data, this study systematically quantified the long-term trend of wind-wave directional deviation, analyzed the evolution of wave composition using the wind wave energy fraction factor, and further revealed the spatiotemporal characteristics of abrupt shifts in wave direction by constructing a wave direction sequence database at short-term scales (30 min and 60 min) and a spatial scale of hundreds of kilometers. The results indicated an increasing trend in the proportion of wind wave energy over the decade, accompanied by periodic interannual fluctuations, which were closely related to changes in regional wind power density. The wind-wave directional deviation was relatively stable on an interannual scale, with nearly 50% of samples showing deviations greater than 30° over the ten-year period; however, seasonal differences were remarkable, with approximately 46% of samples in winter exceeding 50° deviation, compared to only 22% in summer. Wave direction variability exhibited a dual-mode characteristic of "overall stability with local abrupt shifts." 70% of samples showed wave direction changes within 20° over 30 min, yet 15% of samples exhibited abnormal deflection greater than 30°, and these abrupt events showed no significant correlation with local wind fields or sea state; at the hundred-kilometer scale, 45% of samples experienced wave direction changes exceeding 30°, strongly associated with variations in wind fields. It is noteworthy that ERA5 reanalysis data significantly underestimated both short-term abrupt shifts and spatial variability in wave direction. These findings provide crucial scientific support for environmental load assessment in deep-ocean engineering, the prediction of operational safety windows, and the improvement of climate models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR] |
| Database: | Energy & Power Source |
| FullText | Text: Availability: 0 |
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| Header | DbId: enr DbLabel: Energy & Power Source An: 193682547 AccessLevel: 6 PubType: Academic Journal PubTypeId: academicJournal PreciseRelevancyScore: 0 |
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| Items | – Name: Title Label: Title Group: Ti Data: Mechanisms of wind wave and swell partitioning and abrupt wave direction shifts in the deep-ocean: A decade of observations in the Hawaiian waters. – Name: Author Label: Authors Group: Au Data: <searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Yao%2C+Shijie%22">Yao, Shijie</searchLink><relatesTo>1</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Duan%2C+Wenyang%22">Duan, Wenyang</searchLink><relatesTo>1</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<i> duanwenyang@hrbeu.edu.cn</i><br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Zhang%2C+Minghao%22">Zhang, Minghao</searchLink><relatesTo>1</relatesTo> (AUTHOR)<br /><searchLink fieldCode="AR" term="%22Xu%2C+Wentao%22">Xu, Wentao</searchLink><relatesTo>1</relatesTo> (AUTHOR) – Name: TitleSource Label: Source Group: Src Data: <searchLink fieldCode="JN" term="%22SCIENCE+CHINA+Earth+Sciences%22">SCIENCE CHINA Earth Sciences</searchLink>. May2026, Vol. 69 Issue 5, p1772-1784. 13p. – Name: Subject Label: Subject Terms Group: Su Data: *<searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Wind+waves%22">Wind waves</searchLink><br />*<searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Marine+engineering%22">Marine engineering</searchLink><br />*<searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Wave+energy%22">Wave energy</searchLink><br />*<searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Theory+of+wave+motion%22">Theory of wave motion</searchLink><br />*<searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Ocean%22">Ocean</searchLink><br />*<searchLink fieldCode="DE" term="%22Seawater%22">Seawater</searchLink> – Name: Abstract Label: Abstract Group: Ab Data: Insufficient understanding of the coupling mechanism between wind and wave directions in the deep ocean, as well as the spatiotemporal evolution of wave direction, significantly constrains the operational performance of marine engineering and offshore equipment. Utilizing observational data from five buoy stations in the Hawaiian waters from 2014 to 2023 and concurrent ERA5 reanalysis data, this study systematically quantified the long-term trend of wind-wave directional deviation, analyzed the evolution of wave composition using the wind wave energy fraction factor, and further revealed the spatiotemporal characteristics of abrupt shifts in wave direction by constructing a wave direction sequence database at short-term scales (30 min and 60 min) and a spatial scale of hundreds of kilometers. The results indicated an increasing trend in the proportion of wind wave energy over the decade, accompanied by periodic interannual fluctuations, which were closely related to changes in regional wind power density. The wind-wave directional deviation was relatively stable on an interannual scale, with nearly 50% of samples showing deviations greater than 30° over the ten-year period; however, seasonal differences were remarkable, with approximately 46% of samples in winter exceeding 50° deviation, compared to only 22% in summer. Wave direction variability exhibited a dual-mode characteristic of "overall stability with local abrupt shifts." 70% of samples showed wave direction changes within 20° over 30 min, yet 15% of samples exhibited abnormal deflection greater than 30°, and these abrupt events showed no significant correlation with local wind fields or sea state; at the hundred-kilometer scale, 45% of samples experienced wave direction changes exceeding 30°, strongly associated with variations in wind fields. It is noteworthy that ERA5 reanalysis data significantly underestimated both short-term abrupt shifts and spatial variability in wave direction. These findings provide crucial scientific support for environmental load assessment in deep-ocean engineering, the prediction of operational safety windows, and the improvement of climate models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR] |
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| RecordInfo | BibRecord: BibEntity: Identifiers: – Type: doi Value: 10.1007/s11430-025-1857-8 Languages: – Code: eng Text: English PhysicalDescription: Pagination: PageCount: 13 StartPage: 1772 Subjects: – SubjectFull: Wind waves Type: general – SubjectFull: Marine engineering Type: general – SubjectFull: Wave energy Type: general – SubjectFull: Theory of wave motion Type: general – SubjectFull: Ocean Type: general – SubjectFull: Seawater Type: general Titles: – TitleFull: Mechanisms of wind wave and swell partitioning and abrupt wave direction shifts in the deep-ocean: A decade of observations in the Hawaiian waters. Type: main BibRelationships: HasContributorRelationships: – PersonEntity: Name: NameFull: Yao, Shijie – PersonEntity: Name: NameFull: Duan, Wenyang – PersonEntity: Name: NameFull: Zhang, Minghao – PersonEntity: Name: NameFull: Xu, Wentao IsPartOfRelationships: – BibEntity: Dates: – D: 01 M: 05 Text: May2026 Type: published Y: 2026 Identifiers: – Type: issn-print Value: 16747313 Numbering: – Type: volume Value: 69 – Type: issue Value: 5 Titles: – TitleFull: SCIENCE CHINA Earth Sciences Type: main |
| ResultId | 1 |
