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Waves in Western Long Island Sound: A Fetch-Limited Coastal Basin.

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Bibliographic Details
Title: Waves in Western Long Island Sound: A Fetch-Limited Coastal Basin.
Authors: Shin, Y.1 youngmi.shin@uconn.edu, Cifuentes-Lorenzen, A.2, Strobel, M. M. Howard1, O'Donnell, J.1,3
Source: Journal of Geophysical Research. Oceans. Feb2021, Vol. 126 Issue 2, p1-17. 17p.
Subject Terms: *Ocean waves, *Oceanography, Gravity waves, Ocean surface topography
Geographic Terms: Long Island Sound (N.Y. & Conn.)
Abstract: This paper summarizes the statistics of observations of wind and surface gravity waves in Long Island Sound, a large estuarine embayment in southern New England. We examine the relationship between significant wave height and wind speed and direction and show that the significant wave height and dominant period in western Long Island Sound have an asymmetric response to the wind direction. Waves are larger and have longer periods when the wind is from the east than when the same stress is directed from the west. The data are consistent with the predictions of empirical parameterizations of fetch limited wave growth when the wind is from the west. However, for easterly winds, the westward narrowing of the Sound limits wave growth and requires that an effective fetch of approximately 30 km be used in the empirical formulae. An examination of the extreme values in the time series shows that previous estimates based on simulations significantly underestimates the occurrence of large waves with the important consequence that design guidance for shore protection structures may underestimate wave heights during severe storms. We speculate that earlier work has not adequately represented the consequences of fetch asymmetry on wave growth. Plain Language Summary Measurements of wind and waves from a long-term deployment of a buoy show that wave height and period in the western end of Long Island Sound vary with season, and we describe how the wind speed and direction influence them. The shape and size of the Sound limits how big waves can be. We demonstrate that the significant wave height in the western Sound is larger when the wind is from the east, along the long axis of the basin, and smaller when from the west. To guide shore protection project designers, we also examine how often we should expect very large waves and show that previous analyses underestimate the probability of big waves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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Abstract:This paper summarizes the statistics of observations of wind and surface gravity waves in Long Island Sound, a large estuarine embayment in southern New England. We examine the relationship between significant wave height and wind speed and direction and show that the significant wave height and dominant period in western Long Island Sound have an asymmetric response to the wind direction. Waves are larger and have longer periods when the wind is from the east than when the same stress is directed from the west. The data are consistent with the predictions of empirical parameterizations of fetch limited wave growth when the wind is from the west. However, for easterly winds, the westward narrowing of the Sound limits wave growth and requires that an effective fetch of approximately 30 km be used in the empirical formulae. An examination of the extreme values in the time series shows that previous estimates based on simulations significantly underestimates the occurrence of large waves with the important consequence that design guidance for shore protection structures may underestimate wave heights during severe storms. We speculate that earlier work has not adequately represented the consequences of fetch asymmetry on wave growth. Plain Language Summary Measurements of wind and waves from a long-term deployment of a buoy show that wave height and period in the western end of Long Island Sound vary with season, and we describe how the wind speed and direction influence them. The shape and size of the Sound limits how big waves can be. We demonstrate that the significant wave height in the western Sound is larger when the wind is from the east, along the long axis of the basin, and smaller when from the west. To guide shore protection project designers, we also examine how often we should expect very large waves and show that previous analyses underestimate the probability of big waves. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
ISSN:21699275
DOI:10.1029/2020JC016468